The Customs Officers’ Path from Perros-Guirec to Ploumanac’h: The Guide

The Customs Officers’ Path is the must-do walk on the Pink Granite Coast. It hugs the coastline closely, winding among extraordinary pink rock formations, between Trestraou beach and the harbour at Ploumanac’h. It forms part of the GR34, the long-distance trail that follows the coast all the way round Brittany.

The route at a glance

• Start: Trestraou beach, in Perros-Guirec (or directly from L’Anse Bleue via the coastal path)
• Finish: Ploumanac’h harbour and Saint-Guirec beach
• Distance: around 4 to 6 km one way, depending on your starting point and any detours
• Duration: allow around 1 hr 30 one way if you stop for photos, and double that for a there-and-back walk
• Difficulty: easy, with a few ups and downs; the path is sometimes narrow and rocky

These figures are a guide only: check the route on a map or GPS track before you set off.

What you’ll see

The path runs through a protected natural site where the granite boulders have been carved by the sea and wind over thousands of years. Regular walkers have given them nicknames based on their shapes: look out for the tortoise, the mushroom and the bottle. Along the way, you’ll pass the Mean Ruz lighthouse, built from pink granite, before reaching Ploumanac’h, with its small harbour and the Saint-Guirec oratory perched on the beach.

When to go

• Early morning or late in the day: the low light brings out the colours of the granite, and there are far fewer people around than at midday.
• Out of season: from September to June, the path is much quieter and the scenery just as beautiful.
• In strong winds: the sight of waves crashing against the rocks is spectacular, but stay on the path and keep well back from the edges.

Our practical tips

• Good footwear: the path is often rocky.
• A windbreaker or waterproof, even in summer: the weather can change quickly in Brittany.
• Water and a few snacks, or stop for a break at a café in Ploumanac’h harbour.
• Stick to the marked path: the vegetation and birdlife here are protected.
• For the return leg, you can come back the same way or take an inland route.
• With a dog: rules vary by area and by season, so check with the tourist office before you set off.

From L’Anse Bleue

The coastal path can be reached on foot straight from the house, so there’s no need to take the car. Once you’re back, the hot tub overlooking the bay is the best way to recover. To find out more about the house, take a look at the accommodation, and for more walking ideas, read what to do in Perros-Guirec.